Salutations to all,
I am in desperate need of your assistance; I just replaced the propshaft on my 2013 640D F06; I purchased a replacement on eBay; however, it does not appear to be in good condition after installation; I am experiencing terrible vibrations and winking noises; and today, while parked on a ramp, I noticed that the rear coupling is cracked.
According to the photos, it appears extremely shaky. New couplings have been installed, but the rear coupling appears to be under a lot of tension, which is pushing the center bearing bracket all the way to the back. The angle is also undesirable.
I have ordered a new Febi rear coupling, but the result will be the same.
I removed the propshaft, replaced the couplings on the SH unit, bolted it on the gearbox side first, then the rear and center bearings. After that, I did all the markings.
Is something I'm doing wrong that the rear coupling is under so much tension, even with the center bearing bolts loose?
With gratitude
Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
Posts: 32
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
What exactly are couplings?
In most cases, arrows indicating the proper orientation relative to the flange are visible on such items; however, I am unable to discern any such markings on yours.
Furthermore, has the center mount been properly orientated?
In most cases, arrows indicating the proper orientation relative to the flange are visible on such items; however, I am unable to discern any such markings on yours.
Furthermore, has the center mount been properly orientated?
Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
much obliged.
Regrettably, those are likely Chinese brands sold on Amazon. I needed to fix it the following morning, but none of the major retailers had what I needed. I ended up ordering two Febi couplings—one later and another today—because I wasn't very impressed with them initially. I'm worried that they might have the same result.
In accordance with the instructions, I replicated the original, verified the thickness and orientation, and everything bolted together smoothly.
Regrettably, those are likely Chinese brands sold on Amazon. I needed to fix it the following morning, but none of the major retailers had what I needed. I ended up ordering two Febi couplings—one later and another today—because I wasn't very impressed with them initially. I'm worried that they might have the same result.
In accordance with the instructions, I replicated the original, verified the thickness and orientation, and everything bolted together smoothly.
Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
It appears like there's too much tension on the propshaft's rear diff segment, which could be a problem. is bringing the coupling in closer to the central bearing.
It appears the donor one is a revised version of the original one on the car and should be identical after doing a quick internet search using the propshaft SN.
I am grateful.
It appears the donor one is a revised version of the original one on the car and should be identical after doing a quick internet search using the propshaft SN.
I am grateful.
Posts: 32
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
My apologies for not being more explicit; by "orientation," I mean its placement within the trans tunnel. Are you certain that the bolt holes on the center support should be located at the bottom and not at the top?
The flex disc problem you're experiencing can be caused by turning it the wrong way around.
The flex disc problem you're experiencing can be caused by turning it the wrong way around.
Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
Alright, as a last resort, we attempted to flip it over, but it was impossible. The two holes are for the 5 series, and the propshaft has a small supporting frame, but on the 6, it's not there. After conducting further research, we learned that they changed the diff and propshaft after 2014. I bought another 2012 SH unit from eBay, so it should still work with the 2013, right? Maybe they started making tweaks in 2014, but I have the impression that the segment of the propshaft near the diff is shorter.
I will make sure to update this thread.
I will make sure to update this thread.
Posts: 29
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
Your propshaft is either the wrong length or out of phase, my friend.
Its F06 640D model features a three-piece shaft. The SH unit will vibrate and damage the rear guibo if the factory alignment marks are not perfectly matched when bolted on.
The rear coupling's tension plus the center bearing's forcefully pushed back means you're using the wrong shaft or you've combined parts from different cars. A 66K donor is no guarantee of identical specs.
Flavours of Febi guibo won't revive it. Just tear another one to shreds.
Climb under it once more:
Verify that all three pieces have matching white and yellow paint markings.
2. Use RealOEM to compare the shaft's part number to your vehicle identification number.
If the marks don't align, you should bring the shaft to a propshaft expert for balancing and phasing.
The differential and gearbox seals will be the next to go if you drive it in that manner
.
Its F06 640D model features a three-piece shaft. The SH unit will vibrate and damage the rear guibo if the factory alignment marks are not perfectly matched when bolted on.
The rear coupling's tension plus the center bearing's forcefully pushed back means you're using the wrong shaft or you've combined parts from different cars. A 66K donor is no guarantee of identical specs.
Flavours of Febi guibo won't revive it. Just tear another one to shreds.
Climb under it once more:
Verify that all three pieces have matching white and yellow paint markings.
2. Use RealOEM to compare the shaft's part number to your vehicle identification number.
If the marks don't align, you should bring the shaft to a propshaft expert for balancing and phasing.
The differential and gearbox seals will be the next to go if you drive it in that manner
.
Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
Hello, I appreciate your response and suggestions.
I concur since it is possible to use the wrong shaft if everything has not been dismantled. The old shaft was removed in its entirety, and the SH was installed in its entirety with inexpensive couplings, aligned with marks, and so on.
They began making adjustments in 2014, but from 2012 to 2013, nothing changed, so I placed an order for a new shaft before that year. I'm hoping it will solve the problem.
For instance, the old shaft had wear at the joints and needed replacement at 126k, so I mentioned that 66k was for the condition of the center bearing and shaft wear.
Will observe if any additional problems arise with the second unit that was ordered before 2014. I will use marks to align it, but since the shaft is changed, the marks on the differential and gearbox may not be accurate because the new shaft has a different balancing point. I don't know, this is just my theory, but I will use markings to align it and see how it goes.
Much obliged.
I concur since it is possible to use the wrong shaft if everything has not been dismantled. The old shaft was removed in its entirety, and the SH was installed in its entirety with inexpensive couplings, aligned with marks, and so on.
They began making adjustments in 2014, but from 2012 to 2013, nothing changed, so I placed an order for a new shaft before that year. I'm hoping it will solve the problem.
For instance, the old shaft had wear at the joints and needed replacement at 126k, so I mentioned that 66k was for the condition of the center bearing and shaft wear.
Will observe if any additional problems arise with the second unit that was ordered before 2014. I will use marks to align it, but since the shaft is changed, the marks on the differential and gearbox may not be accurate because the new shaft has a different balancing point. I don't know, this is just my theory, but I will use markings to align it and see how it goes.
Much obliged.
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
Have you ever considered modifying the original shaft by swapping out the u/js?