Posts: 44
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
Everyone, have a good morning. Hi, I'm Lee, and I'm an Englishman currently residing in Spain. The 1995 P38 4.0 litre is mine. The dancing door lock has been a problem for me lately. I have perused posts pertaining to this issue that date back to 2023 and beyond. Reading these insightful posts, my only issue is that I'm a bit bewildered by the sheer volume of information because I'm late to the party. Maybe some components have changed since then.
With mechanics, I am well-versed. My 1985 Range Rover Classic (which has been mine since 1992) has had its blend motors and other parts replaced with the help of this forum. My plan is to start over with the door lock problem, claim ignorance about some parts of it, and then hopefully get my questions answered and the problem fixed.
First of all, my vehicle is left-hand drive (Spain), so it makes me a little confused when I see terms like "driver side door," "passenger side door," "nearside door," "left hand door," etc. in some posts. Assuming we're seated in the front rows, facing forward, I get that the door to my left is the left door and the door to my right is the right door. Consequently, it raises some questions. The manual door lock with key, for instance, is typically found on the right-hand side of a right-hand drive vehicle, and on the left-hand side of a left-hand drive vehicle.
This leads me to believe, naively, that RHD and LHD vehicles likely have different configurations. It might be helpful to refer to the nautical system as "red" for left, "port," and "green" for starboard and right.

This brings us to our current predicament.

A gratifying clunk or thunk is usually the sound I hear when my door locks open and close. Great. My left-hand drive (LHD) vehicle's right-hand door (the green one on the port side) has been opening smoothly but won't close. It needs to be closed by hand. Remove the interior panel and check it out. In addition to the seemingly dirty connectors, the latch appears to be extremely dry. The black ono single wire wrapped in somewhat sticky foam tape.
From what I've read in other threads, it seems like we should clean up the connector. It was finished. Regarding the comments, I squirted WD40 (contact cleaner was not available) over the mechanism—I'm a little confused about this part—of the lock, specifically the mechanical latch and the actuator that control it. Great, here is the end product. Even a week later, I still have the inside panel taken off. It seemed like everything was running smoothly.
However, a few days ago, I tried opening and closing the door several times while standing beside the vehicle when I heard a low-volume sound, similar to a cat's mewing, coming from behind. Somebody mentioned a link between the tailboard and the door in another thread. I proceed to open and close the tailboard. Once again, the door opens and closes with a charming clunk. :) The reaction has been absolutely delightful, and this has happened again.
There must be a link here, but I'd rather not start pulling hair out of my ears until I have a better grasp of the issue.
Many people on this forum go out of their way to help newcomers like me, and I'm grateful to them. Sorry for the long post, but I really need someone to explain this issue to me. Much obliged, Lee.
Posts: 41
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
The latches for LHD and RHD are almost identical. The standard requirement for a key mechanism door is three microswitches on the latch. You can use the switch for:

When the key is turned clockwise or anti-clockwise, the keyswitch becomes grounded.
The door is grounded when the Central Door Locking (CDL) is unlocked.
Can you tell if the door is open or closed?

Accordingly, a right-hand drive vehicle will have all three on the right door and only the CDL and the open door on the left. The right-hand drive vehicle will be reversed.

The CDL switch in the right door is always the ground for the tailboard button, regardless of where the driver sits.

Microswitch tips or internal plastic levers that have seen better days are the usual culprits in dancing locks.
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
The locking motor is having difficulty. Following Pete's logic, the tailboard will be unlocked if the right-hand door (whether left-hand drive or right-hand drive) is unlocked, and locked if it is. The tailgate latch uses a ground that is put out by the CDL (Central Door Locking) switch in the right-hand latch when the door is unlocked.

A dying motor will make an annoying whine sound instead of a satisfying clunk. To lock, turn the little motor in one direction, and to unlock, turn it in the other. The brushes will wear down and the commutator will become fatigued due to carbon buildup.

A distinct issue is dancing locks, which occur when the vehicle locks and unlocks itself while you're on the go due to a faulty CDL switch in one of the front doors. Just so you know, the green side is actually Starboard (RH), not Port (LH). It's clear that you're not an aviator or boater.
Posts: 44
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
Fantastic content. I need to move at a leisurely pace or else I will become confused. This is illustrated by the green and red example (my right-hand door, which is green on one side of the port). I believe you will find that this is the mistake you are referring to..The red side represents the port (left side) and the green side (right side). So, I failed to review my post. Going back to the entrances. Our point is that the CDL switch is located on the right-hand door and is connected to the tailboard. The fact that the right-hand lock opens but won't close is more than coincidental; however, when I open the tailboard (which has never given me any problems) and close it again, the right-hand lock/switch works perfectly. Is there a connection between the tailgate and door, or a ground wire or something similar, besides the whine indicating that the motor might be about to die? Everything functions with a pleasant thunk, and the whine is infrequent, as I mentioned before. According to my dad, a gremlin is currently under development. If anyone has any suggestions on how to remove the tailboard motor and replace it, I would greatly appreciate it.
I appreciate how quickly you responded. How far can we take this?
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