I'd be grateful if someone could explain the problem to me because I've run out of ideas. It's a V6 diesel from 2008.
An egr code on the left side was the initial spark. According to the local garage, they would charge over £700 to replace the EGR unit. I opted to buy an offline one that was cheaper and do the change myself. Run the code clearance.My car is still the same. I replaced the oil-soaked but still functional swirl flap motor that I found after doing research. The intake manifold has been removed. I repaired the oil cooler seal, rebuilt the swirl flaps and did other things while I was there. Nothing has changed. The turbo actuator and pressure sensors for the boost were also my work. After a brief period of great acceleration, the car kicks out once more. Giving the same output when connected. I am unsure of any other places to look.
Much obliged
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Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
642 engine, isn't it?
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Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
Yeah, that's right!
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Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
Just got back from another spin with her. The egr line continues to be interrupted. Nothing has changed since I began 
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
Awful, low-quality EGR valves. Get a new one and toss the old one. After the fitting, did you teach it all? In my opinion, Whala or someone similar makes the real ones. Half of the information is contained in the fault codes. To make an accurate diagnosis, you require real-time data. A boost leak, electrical problem, etc., could be plaguing you.
Once those 642 EGR valves were no longer available, we had a few plans in place. I wish it weren't the only choice, but I had to.
Once those 642 EGR valves were no longer available, we had a few plans in place. I wish it weren't the only choice, but I had to.
Posts: 30
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
It was worth a go because of the 10-year warranty, even though I had the same thoughts about the egr. While I am proficient in mechanics, I am not sure how to check for electrical problems.Function testing the egr with my reader is the only test I've been able to conduct. It opens and closes on that test, and after driving it, soot builds up on the value, so it opens for a while, but I can't say for how long. In the context of an electrical test, what kinds of values should I be seeking? Much obliged
Posts: 73
Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2026
You should look for a diagnostic machine that already has them loaded.
One of our products, xentry, can detect EGR problems automatically. Is the smoke test complete?
One of our products, xentry, can detect EGR problems automatically. Is the smoke test complete?