MG CAR OWNERS FORUM

rrently own a 2015 Mitsubishi Lancer. After a month of not using it (I have another vehicle), out of the blue, I attempted to start it and it wouldn't crank, making no noise and likely signaling a dead battery. Everything in the car, including the lights, the key fob locking button, the horn, and more, was getting power. Simply put, no cranking, no noise.

At first, I assumed the starter had died. I tried thunking it, but it won't turn. Verified all engine bay fuses; found none defective. Connectors for the batteries were snug. Finally, the starter was the problem.

I changed the starter, but the crank won't turn. I made sure it was getting power. Vacuume test completed. All is well. The vehicle would start when I disconnected and then reconnected the battery after testing its voltage, but it would not start again when I shut off the power. No loose or dirty parts on the battery.

Get the battery examined and charged. In pristine shape.

Made the decision to check the car's ignition switch. I was about to check the ignition fuse after opening the fuse box and sticking my hand inside when I heard a booting up sound, similar to starting a washing machine, and the engine started right up. I turned it off, but it wouldn't turn on again.

Assuming a faulty wire in the ignition harness is the culprit. Problems with wiring are something I'm completely ill-equipped to diagnose. I made sure the plastic connector on the driver's side of the wheel—the actual ignition switch—wasn't burned or shorted, but no matter how much I tightened or fiddled with the connection, the car still wouldn't start.

I am at a loss as to how to resolve this issue or identify the specific wires. Would it be the ignition switch harness grounds that are faulty? They appear to be in good working order. I still can't start the car when I wiggle those.

Every little bit helps. Apologies for the lengthy post. Much obliged.

In my experience with a 2009 Kia Rio, the problem was with the immobilizer antenna coil; I doubt this would be the same thing. The engine would crank but not fire.

Inspect the fuse box for faulty relays. For the last two or three years, I've been trying to figure out why my engine won't crank. When I felt the temperature of a relay, I knew I had cracked the code. The dashboard was giving me no errors. On occasion, though, I would experience ESC/ABS issues, which, for some reason, would disappear. As you stand above the box on the driver's side, you'll see two big black relays that are closest to the windshield. There have been zero problems since I changed them four months ago. Hope everything works out!

"Nailed it! I'm going to check the car's ignition switch. I was checking the ignition fuse when I opened the fuse box and heard a booting up sound, similar to starting a washing machine. Then I realized I could start the car.

At this point, it seems like a problem with the connection, albeit it could have been accidental. Have you changed the fuses that needed it? Poor connectivity is one possible explanation, even though they appear to be fine.

Is there a possibility that a wire or connector is faulty? Although they may appear satisfactory, they may not actually be.
Is a multimeter at your disposal for testing the connection's conductivity?



Here are a couple more far-fetched options.
Take the starter relays out of the fuse box while the engine is off. Look for dirt or debris on the terminals; if you find any, clean them and put them back in. Then, to aid in making a better contact, remove and replace multiple times. If this resolves the issue, you may find that you require additional maintenance as it is likely to recur.

Now you might have a gasoline problem even though all the relays are fine. Even with computer ignition and other contemporary conveniences, a malfunctioning fuel pump might render the ignition inoperable. In a previous vehicle, I experienced the same issue. From time to time, the vehicle would not start. Thankfully, it turned out to be a fuel pump problem; I had to wait till it blew before having it hauled to my mechanic, who warned that he wouldn't know what was wrong unless it did. Another vehicle I was driving had a problem where the air conditioning and traction control ceased functioning due to a faulty ABS wheel speed detector sharing the same fault circuit. So, are you ruling out any other possible causes since you think it couldn't be that?

I was just seeing a show where these guys were riding a DeTomaso Pantera when it suddenly stopped working on the way back to their house. The culprit was found on the computer.

Corrosion on the connection or a faulty battery wire could be the source of the earth connection. A low current may prevent the computer from sending power, even while other components are operational due to the high current drawn by the starter.
The computer can be to blame as well.
Otherwise, you'll have to trace the wire to see if the problem is with the connection or the cable itself.

Well done!

Indeed, it does resemble an intermittent fuel pump/supply problem quite a bit.

Might serve as your safety net! My six-month-old Toyota ended up being my personal security system. To reset it, read the manual and follow the instructions.