This is my MGB GT. While it was built in '79 it was first registered in early 1980, so while I describe it as a '79 car it is probably strictly a 1980 model.
It had been sitting in my granddad's garage for 17 years when we pulled it out so it needed a little bit of attention, though the engine was absolutely fine and we had it moving again under its own power in just a few weekend's work.
That was back in January 2009 and since then it's been a rolling maintenance / repair project. Everything is pretty much as per the original car (with some replacement parts swapped out for OEM-spec) except for the ignition which uses an Accuspark unit and the fuel pump which is solid state.
I was up on my garage roof doing some repairs when I glanced down and saw my B sat on the drive and I ended up stopping what I was doing just to look. I've seen the B from an elevated position before, but not directly in front, so I had to grab my camera and take a quick shot.
Going to start by spraying inside all the box sections, cross-member, above the petrol tank and anywhere else I can get access to with their rust converter to stop any corrosion which might already be under way and give an additional layer of protection. I'm them going to use their cavity wax to act as the 'proper' water shield. Finally I'm getting some underseal to touch up the areas of the chassis where the factory stuff has come away.
I've already started coating the suspension, cross-member and petrol tank underside with Eastwood's rust encapsulator followed by their chassis black which leaves a really nice finish. That stuff is paint brush work whereas the Dinitrol stuff is supplied in aerosols with long-reach nozzles which will let me get right inside in the box-sections using the access holes.
Hopefully this will mean I can extend the driving season without any worry of impending disintegration
I'll post some photos when I'm done.
Before I get into the box sections I decided to tidy up a few other bits. The sump had sketchy paint and rust patches, and the protective cross-members which run under the gearbox had a few places where the factory underseal had come off and rust was appearing. (yes I know that clutch hose looks a little twisted, but it looks a lot worse than it is, promise) :
I hit the sump with some degreaser and started to clean up the cross-members. Apparently even if the underseal looks ok, chances are there is rust underneath. I ended up cleaning up the whole cross-member:
So my plan of attack has changed a little. I'm going to treat the box-sections as planned, but I'm also going to have a look at the factory underseal, starting with the chassis rails and maybe moving on from there depending how things go (tbh the chassis rails will e plenty to start with, the underseal is pretty tough stuff). Here's a small section - you can see where I've scraped some of the underseal off and the bodywork seems pretty good (you can see the matt black original paint, even patches of yellow) but there is rust starting in places and this is what I want to sort out.
I've heard it's usually the floorpans that have the most rust (certainly mine have some but luckily don't need replacing and have been welded and patched up well). Do yours seem in good shape? Where I noticed the rust first was behind the front seats under the carpet, it'd be interesting to see how fresh your ones are and if that does have any reflection on the rest of the underside of the car.
I bet it's going to look really neat when you're done, looking forward to seeing the finished protection. You'll be putting some serious miles on the B this winter without a care in the world!!
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The Dinitrol stuff is more like compressed air than paint aerosols - there's no rattle as it doesn't need mixing, so it's quick to get started. They come with a couple of extension lengths, a 6" or so and a 18" one. It's this latter one you use for the drain holes. It's very weird as you poke it through and keep feeding it though - you end up wondering where on earth the other end goes!
Anyway, spraying as you pull it out you should coat most of the internals - the pipe had a spray nozzle on the end which ensures a good distribution. Just make sure you stop spraying before the end of the pipe comes out the drain hole! You will get some on your hands as it tends to run back down the pipe as you're applying it from underneath, and it's pretty sticky stuff so it should coat the innards pretty well.
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